I’m about to put in the fastener for my dress. Corset backs, buttons and loops, invisible or regular zipper are all options for closing the back of a wedding gown. I have chosen to combine two methods: the security of a zipper with the elegance of button loops and satin covered buttons. This is the correct way to sew a lapped zipper that is easy for a beginner sewer.
Bitney’s Tip:
Keep your zipper closed throughout the application and sew from the bottom of the zipper to top.
- Sew a basting stitch the exact length of your zipper, continue down the seam with a regular stitch. (See #7)
- Extend the right side of the seam allowance and line your regular zipper with the top of garment. Pin in place. Using a zipper foot, positioned to the right of the needle and machine baste.
- Switch needle position on the zipper foot to the left, turn the zipper face up forming a fold in the seam allowance. Bring the fold close, but not over the zipper teeth or pull. Stitch along the edge of the fold over all the thickness.
- Turn garment to right side and lay garment as flat as possible over the unstitched zipper tape. Hand baste across the bottom of the zipper then up along the side (about 1/2″ wide).
- Position the foot to the right of the needle. Stitch as close as you can to the bottom of the zipper and up the side. Pivoting at the corner. Try not to stitch over the basting. Bring thread ends to the underside and tie. Remove basting stitches.
- Finish by removing the stitches from the placket so the zipper is able to be unzipped.
- This shows a placket that intersects a cross-seam (like in my case a waist seam). Make sure that the seams match up before basting the placket opening. Trim cross-seam allowances to get rid of excess bulk. Stitch from the bottom of seam to bottom of placket using a regular stitch, backstitch then baste to top of placket.
One Last Tip:
Did you know zippers have stitching guidelines right on them? They do! Seen in #2 it is a differentiation in the weave of the zipper tape.
Check out my YouTube channel HERE, I love watching and listing sewing how-to’s I find useful.
Thought I’d share these vintage notions I received as part of a Christmas gift. Here’s what was included:
- 2 wooden thread spools
- small hook & eyes box (10₵!)
- box of dressmaker steel pins
- box that says “6 cord chain spool cotton 150 yards” it is actually filled with various nick-nacks like eyelets, hooks and safety pins
- nice gold thread scissors
- pinking shears and box
- travel sewing pouch with thread, pins, scissors and paper tape measure
Some really great keepsakes!
Here are some photos that I finally got around to uploading of the prom dress I altered. It was originally a two piece (bodice and floor length skirt). This is what I did:
- Shortened the skirt to just below the knee
- Attached the new skirt to bodice (removed waistband and lining to do this)
- Created a nice new curve on the back where the zipper is
- Added new button loops and ribbon for closure
- Re-attached lining
- Created a flower pin out of left over fabric! See my post on how to make one HERE!
Viola! Enjoy the pictures!
Well, it’s less than six months till my wedding day! It’s going by quickly for sure, and so much left to do. We have chosen our Honeymoon location (Hilton Waikoloa Village) in Hawaii. Looking forward to that! Sun, dolphins, beaches, looks incredibly romantic and we deserve a nice vacation!
Started on my dress this past 2 weeks. Trying very hard to conceal it from Ryan. Just finished fitting the bodice, which is a lot more difficult on yourself. Good thing I have a dress form! I am documenting the process through video, I will post it up in segment once the wedding is over and with. Not a “how-to video” more like a showcase of my skill that I hope everyone will find interesting.
Unfortunately with me taking on the designing of my own dress it leaves me little time to commit to any future projects. Please still feel free to request a quote and I will get back to you. Just be aware of the circumstances I am under for the next few months!
Thank you and Happy Holidays!
Hello all! Hope everyone had a wonderful Halloween, because I sure did. I loved the overdress I made for my Drusilla costume. Now you get to see the final product. It has a corseted front with eyelets and is made from heavy satin and lace. I did a nice detailed neckline with lace trim. Lovely.
Already have plans for next Halloween! Other than my costume, I was busy with the costume shop and altering a Kiss costume. I am glad the month is over because it was a little stressful. Now I can focus on my wedding dress! Heading to Vancouver next weekend to get some materials and little things that will make it unique and ‘me’. Which is something I always do for my clients.
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